This is second post of a 2 part series on Taiwan. Read Part 1 here
DAY 5
We passed through lush mountains, rice paddies, and small villages before the train swung back along the coastline, chugging along at a surprisingly slow speed towards Hualien City. The family compartment of the train found itself occupied with a group of misfits – a couple on their honeymoon who missed their previous train, 2 middle aged gentlemen who you’d expect to find at a seedy KTV, my pregnant wife and I, and my friends and their 1 year old daughter – the only truly qualified occupants for this cabin. Soon enough, the security guard came through to scold and usher the others out; we were spared thanks for my friends child and found ourselves happily alone in the cabin.
We arrived in Hualien City after approximately 3.5 hours on the train. Hualien City, mostly known for its proximity to Taroko National park, is a mellow town with a lazy vibe. We got our first dose of “island time” during the hour long check-in into Lakeshore Hotel.
We had lunch at a fake Shanghainese restaurant across the street then set out to explore the town on foot. The peacefulness of the town was a welcome change from the chaos of Taipei; we found ourselves strolling through quiet neighborhoods, well maintained parks, and oceanside walkways largely devoid of people.
Since our walk brought us close to the Dong Da Men night market, the night market enthusiasts in our group (by now essentially one person) suggested we go there for dinner. Originally neutral to the idea, I quickly realized our grave error upon entering the market – 1) The official name is actually Dong Da Men TOURIST Night Market 2) There seemed to be equal numbers of souvenir/game stalls compared to food stalls and 3) Shop owners were soliciting customers using megaphones – all signs of a tourist trap. Resigned to mediocre food, we ate out of necessity rather than desire – steamed dumplings, fried scallion pancake, oyster omelet, stinky tofu (extra stinky version), stinky tofu fries (unintentional order), fried mochi, and grilled corn. The food was so unsatisfying that we bought junk food at Seven Eleven before returning to our hotel.
Day 6
Morning brought renewed vigor and eager to try a local breakfast before our Taroko Gorge tour, we walked into a local neighborhood restaurant of questionable hygiene. We ordered a smattering of different items off the Chinese-Only menu without realizing that every single item we had ordered was a type of scallion pancake. Plates after plates of scallion pancakes came out of the kitchen as the elderly cook furiously rolled dough to keep up with our inadvertent order. We begrudgingly chomped on scallion pancakes, some with very strange flavors, vowing never to eat another ever again.
Our private driver and tour guide, a reserved middle aged gentleman by the name of Yong Ting, picked us up back at the hotel for a day tour of Taroko National Park. Prior to Taiwan, I have never heard of Taroko Gorge, but my wife tells me it is considered the crown jewel of Taiwan. I was somewhat disappointed that this distinction was not awarded to the Jadeite Cabbage.
We entered the park after a one hour car ride as scenic mountains, valleys, and rivers suddenly appeared.
We disembarked at the Shakadang Bridge and made our way down a tall spiral staircase to a paved trail carved into the mountain. A pleasant walk with minimal elevation change, we admired the pale turquoise waters surrounded by vegetation while ducking under enormous head-crushing boulders. At the end of the 1.5km stretch, we saw a hoard of people surrounding 5 makeshift cabins known as “5D”. The cabins, run by the indigenous Aboriginal people, were selling a variety of night market-like food and drink. So quick to forget our Dong Da Men experience, my friend raced towards the cabins, gleefully returning with boar sausages and floral drinks. “5D” marked the end of the first segment of the Shakadang Trail so we turned around back towards the bridge.
Next, Yong Ting drove us to the Swallow Grotto (Yanzikou) Trail, a half kilometer stretch of road (shared by both car and pedestrian) etched into the mountain directly above the Taroko Gorge. Walking along the cliff in hard hats while bonking each other on the head childishly, we had great views of the vertically sloped canyon walls carved by the turbulent Liwu River below. The trail ended at a rest stop where a large crowd gathered around another Aboriginal boar sausage shop (not surprised).
Yong Ting then took us to The Tunnel of Nine Turns (Jiuqudong), a 0.7km long cliffside walking trail often considered to be one of the most beautiful in Taroko National Park. Compared to the Swallow Grotto trail, The Tunnel of Nine Turns lacked the noise of passing cars and was not heavily trafficked. We followed the winding path to the end, enjoying the sounds and sights of the Taroko Gorge in relative solitude. Thankfully no boar sausage vendors were anywhere to be seen.
We concluded our visit to Taroko National Park by visiting the Eternal Spring Shrine (Changchun Shrine). The picturesque shrine, built precipitously on top of a spring along mountainous slopes, was constructed in the 1950s as a memorial to those who died during the construction of a local highway. Rockslides periodically damage the shrine leading to intermittent closures for repair. The hike to the shrine was closed so we took a series of switchbacks up to the bell tower overlooking Changuan Temple.
We had worked up quite an appetite from our walks and with our tour of Taroko National Park complete, Yong Ting took us to a local Aboriginal restaurant for lunch. My main dish of salt pork over rice was surprisingly delicious – substantially more so than the typical Taiwanese fare we had been consuming. My wife was in agreement and became very excited at the prospect of eating at a highly rated Aboriginal restaurant for dinner.
After lunch, we stopped by a small local village that was not part of the official itinerary. Yong Ting, our trusty driver and guide, seemed to think we should go in for a dip. The peaceful village bordered the crystal clear waters of a particular calm stretch of the river, which imparted zen-like state in all of us. It seemed like an area where philosophers would be lost in thought, where monks would meditate, and where artists would draw inspiration. Instead my friend and I disrupted this ambiance by engaging in a brutish rock throwing competition. After I established my superior physical strength, we headed back towards Hualien City, stopping by the scenic Qingshui Cliff and Qixingtan Beach before being delivered back to our hotel.
At night, we had dinner at an Aboriginal restaurant called MuMing which serves a multi-course set menu. The food was delicious, probably one of the best meals we had in Taiwan.
Day 7
After two days in Hualien, we traveled south along the Eastern Taiwan coastline, often described as the Hawaii of Taiwan. Admittedly, the dramatic view from the rest stop bears some semblance to the coastline of the Big Island and Oahu.
We arrived at Shitiping after about 1.5 hours on the road. Shitiping is a scenic area known for its unique sea terrain where violent waves have repeatedly smashed into rock creating a multitude of blowholes and potholes. We walked into an ominous scene – gloomy sky, fierce gales of wind, explosive eruptions of water happening all around us. A crazed fisherman with a net positioned himself on a rock, casting out his net as the waves approached. We watched in amusement (and concern) as the waves repeatedly smashed into him throwing him off balance.
From Shitiping, we drove south towards Sanxiantai, stopping by a small fishing town for lunch. We arrived too early to catch the fish market auction but saw the fishermen unloading their catch for the day.
Sanxiantai (Three Immortals Platform) refers to a headland with 3 notable rock formations that eroded away from the main island. In the 1980s, the Taiwanese government constructed a bridge in the shape of a sea dragon to reconnect the two. Now a landmark destination, on the eastern coast, tourists can traverse the 8 arched bridge to explore the tropical fauna of the lush island.
Fierce winds caused our umbrella to invert as we gingerly crossed the arched bridge. To me, the gaudy design of the bridge did not really seem to match the scenic natural landscape surrounding it. Much like Shitiping, the waters below were very turbulent, and sprays of water intermittently landed on the bridge. We stood in the middle of the angry ocean, absorbing wind and watching the waves pummel the rocks below.
After leaving Sanxiantai, we diverted inwards away from the coastline briefly stopping by the rice paddies of “Mr. Brown Avenue”. A popular activity here is to ride a bicycle or quadcycle through the rice paddies. During rice harvest season, the expansive fields are a vibrant yellow, providing a colorful contrast to the green mountainous backdrop. The day was dark and gloomy so we elected to skip cycling and continue on to our final destination, Taitung city. By the time we arrived at the Sheraton Taitung, the sun had already set. We said farewell to our faithful driver Yong Ting as he started his 3 hour drive back to Hualien.
DAY 8
Taitung City was the last stop on our trip down the Eastern Taiwan coast. An unassuming city with a population of 100,000 inhabitants, Taitung felt like a true “normal” Taiwanese city where blue collar workers lived and died. We saw very few tourists and spent the morning walking around the relatively flat and compact city exploring its local markets. My friends introduced us to the cherimoya, a fruit native to Central and South America, that had a very sweet mangosteen-like taste. Apparently the fruit has gotten immensely popular in Taiwan and grows well in Taitung County due to favorable climate conditions. Almost every produce shop carried cherimoyas and my wife immediately became addicted after one taste. After we had consumed several of them in rapid succession, we learned that the cherimoya seeds are actually toxic and can cause Parkinsons Disease!
We left Taitung at noon headed back to Taipei by train. We spent the remainder of the day at Spring Hill Resort in the Beitou District of Taipei, relaxing in the hot springs in preparation for our long flight back to the US.
Conclusion
Eastern Taiwan provides a getaway from the metropolitan feel and touristic vibe of Taipei and its surroundings. Soaring cliffs, untamed oceans, majestic gorges, lush islands – so many dramatic sights to be found in such a small area. Although I did not come to Taiwan with high expectations, I admit that in the end I was won over.