Hawaii, the land of sun and surf, and the perfect destination for a babymoon…or so we thought before we flew into a storm of epic proportion (By Hawaii standards). A fine mist of rain turned into torrential downpour and we found ourselves dodging rain in an aquarium staring at a semi-translucent jellyfish that I envisioned would taste pretty good on a plate doused with soy sauce and scallion oil.
After my wife discovered she was pregnant, we did some last minute planning to squeeze in one final trip before resigning to a fate of perpetual feeding, burping, and diaper changing. Our essential criteria – somewhere not too far away, somewhere with decent medical care should need arise, somewhere without major endemic infectious diseases – led us to Oahu. In the past, we had never really been that interested in Oahu due to its urban vibe, but that same vibe seemed to be advantageous when the purpose of the trip becomes relaxation and indulgence rather than exploration and adventure. We expected plenty of beach time building up vitamin D stores but unfortunately on departure day the weather report delivered the bad news – rain and overcast skies for the entire trip.
Day 1 – Wakiki
We landed on Oahu Airport to a perfect 76 degrees and took an Uber to Waikiki where we checked into Outrigger Reef Waikiki, one of the many beachfront hotels along Waikiki Beach. Interestingly enough, the “world famous” Waikiki Beach has been eroding away over the years and is now largely man-made with the sand being imported from Southern California and other parts of Hawaii. The hotel industry deserves a large share of the blame as they have recklessly built closer and closer to the shoreline disrupting the natural flow of sand. The sad narrow strip of artificial beach in front of our hotel left much to be desired. Costing a whopping 300 dollars a night with a 35 dollar per night resort fee, the Outrigger’s Reef Hotel offered little in terms of amenities – not even complementary beach chairs and umbrellas! (You can rent them for $$$).
Hungry from our 6 hour flight, we ventured out in search of food and found an unassuming tonkatsu restaurant close to the hotel. Having maybe 10 tables total, we were lucky enough to snag a table without a reservation but the next group of people that arrived were given a 30 minute wait time. We ate delicious Tonkatsu for an outrageous price tag of 80 dollars for 2 (Mid tier option). Most expensive fried pork cutlet I’ve ever had but perhaps the most delicious -light, crisp, buttery, and juicy! Worth it? My Chinese side says no – but this may be the most authentic tonkatsu you can get outside of the Japan.
We walked around Waikiki exploring the streets and I wondered why the hell I was once again surrounded by shops with expensive things and guys in suits (shouldn’t they be dressed in surfer attire?). We walked down the large ocean-side street, along the mega resorts lining the beach and the condominiums/apartments on the opposite side – Oahu’s billion dollar tourism industry on full display. The beach was full of people laying around, surfing, snorkeling, and boozing despite the hazy cloud cover and occasional sprinkle. For a beach often considered as the most famous in the US, I was rather underwhelmed and preferred the turquoise waters and laid-back vibe of the Caribbean beaches.
We headed back to the hotel after our exploration on foot. The 80 dollar tonkatsu was still sitting heavy in our bellies refusing to be digested so we picked up a few musubis for a simple dinner and called it a night. On our way back to the hotel, we made a wrong turn and ended up along a nice stretch of a waterfront passages that connected the hotels.
Day 2 – Waikiki
We woke up to another dreary rainy day. We scrapped our plans to hike and instead took the trolley to the Waikiki Aquarium (The resort fee pays for a public trolley that comes around about once an hour). A very small and unimpressive aquarium compared to the likes of Monterey, the place was nevertheless packed full of people who looked like they’d rather be surfing or sunbathing. It took about an hour to walk through the aquarium, which housed a variety of local aquatic life including the endangered monk seal. Monk seals are apparently very antisocial so the two creatures were housed in separate areas. Sad that despite only an estimated 1400 monks seals remaining in the world, these two at the aquarium refuse to even be in the same room!
After leaving the aquarium, a short walk took us to the Honolulu Zoo and since we had nothing else planned for the day due to bad weather, we entered with minimal expectations. I was pleasantly surprised with the size and diversity of the zoo – we spent two hours browsing the grounds. Highlights include 1) A yawning baboon (cute, but a nearby sign indicates that yawning is a challenge to a fight) 2) A lion trying to unsuccessfully get some lovin’ from a lioness 3) an orangutan covering himself with a blanket to avoid prying tourist eyes 4) A galapagos giant turtle crawling at a snail like pace amidst a flock of peacocks. Not all the animals came out due to sporadic rain but we had a good time nonetheless.
After the zoo, we went to eat a late lunch at Marukame Udon. This popular udon shop located in the middle of Waikiki has mastered the art of efficiency. An assembly line of workers pressed and cut dough, boiled noodles, plated noodles and broth, and rung up customers while hawk-eyed busboys patrolled the seating area seizing empty bowls to encourage customers to vacate the minute they finish eating. Even though there was a line out the door when we arrived, we got our food and was seated within 10 minutes. I ordered a nikutama udon while the Mrs ordered a boring beef udon. We shared a few pieces of a la carte tempura on the side. My udon was quite delicious – soft and chewy noodles and savory beef in a rich dashi broth. We were able to enjoy for about 20 minutes before being chased off by a busboy.
Naturally the only way to balance a big meal is to supplement it with a big desert. We found a green tea desert shop in the Waikiki Yokocho Japanese Food Court and ordered their specialty green tea parfait. Delicious, although it could have done without the cheap tasting corn-flake like cereal bits.
Of course after so much gluttony, I fell victim to food coma. We picked up a few musubis again for a small dinner and returned to the hotel.
Day 3 – Waikiki
After my alarm unintentionally went off at 630 AM, I checked my phone and saw that the weather forecast had changed from rain to partially sunny. This gave us a prime opportunity to visit Diamond Head, a dormant volcanic cone on the eastern end of Waikiki. We took the hotel trolley to Diamond Head Crater, paid 2 bucks to enter the park, and leisurely hiked up to the top. The entire trail was under one mile long with a gradual incline most the way. My pregnant wife easily overtook several Korean tourists who looked like they got lost on their way to a date with their white powdery makeup and flowing dresses. Towards the end of the trail, several flights of stairs led up to the summit where an old pillbox still remained, previously used as a military lookout. We spent about 30 minutes enjoying panoramic views of Waikiki and the Pacific Ocean before heading back down.
One of the benefits of hiking is a clear conscious when it comes to the meal after. Calories were burned and therefore must be replenished. We took an Uber over to “Mitch’s Sushi and Fish Market” at the recommendation of one of the Mrs’ native Hawaiian friends. The restaurant looked more like a warehouse from the outside but upon being seated, I could clearly tell that despite Mitch being a white dude, he was not some California roll-eating chump. Fresh fish is delivered daily with many (hopefully non-irradiated) varieties being shipped over directly from Japan. We ordered “Mitch’s special”, a set course menu that came with a sashimi platter, a nigiri platter, a cooked fish dish, and lobster miso soup. The cooked fish dish was everything I expected from a white man cooking asian-style fish but the standout items were the spiny lobster, toro, and uni. I have never had lobster sashimi before but the flesh was sweet, briny, soft and crisp all at the same time. The meal set us back $300 but I felt it was justified by the quality of the seafood.
After lunch, we took an Uber from the restaurant to Pearl Harbor. Pearl Harbor today is still an active naval and air force base but the visitor center and its galleries are frequented by tourists and contain a historical account of the attack on Pearl Harbor. This surprise attack by the Japanese Imperial Army in 1941 destroyed over 150 aircrafts, sunk 6 battleships, and killed over 2000 military servicemen – and provoked the US to enter World War 2. The galleries were fairly informative and even contained an old unexploded torpedo (thankfully disarmed) fired by a Japanese Torpedo Bomber.
After visiting the galleries we headed over to the theater where we watched a short historical presentation and then hopped onto a ferry to visit the USS Arizona Memorial that was erected over the sunken battleship to honor its deceased sailors. The memorial is a busy attraction and we were lucky enough to snag tickets online the day before. From the memorial, you are able to look down and see the outline of the massive sunken ship that has become home to schools of fish. Many survivors of the attack have been chosen to have their ashes buried in the sunken ship with their fallen comrades and only 3 survivors remain today (all near 100 years old). The USS Arizona was the only battleship that could not be salvaged after the attack due to extensive damage.
Several decommissioned ships turned museums are also docked at Pearl Harbor today. For an extra cost, you could enter USS Bowman submarine and get a flavor of submarine life or climb aboard the USS Missouri and tour the battle stations. I wanted to go but unfortunately we came too late in the day. We left Pearl Harbor and had a unmemorable dinner before going back to the hotel.
Day 4 – The Windward Coast
After three days in Waikiki, we exited the city in our rental car to explore other parts of Oahu. We munched on malasadas from Leonards Bakery while driving east, passing by the Koko Head Crater. A hike to the top of Koko Head Crater is a popular activity but my pregnant wife was not up to the challenge of walking up 1000+ steeply inclined steps along an old railroad track. We passed by Hanauma Bay (popular snorkeling destination) and Sandy Beach (popular surfing destination) before arriving at the Makapu’u Point Lighthouse trailhead (pregnant-friendly trail).
Makapu’u Point (45 minute drive from Waikiki) is the eastern most point of Oahu and a nicely paved <2 mile trail gradually brings you up to a viewpoint overlooking the southeast coastline. Despite a full parking lot, the trail was not terribly congested and 30 minutes later, we were enjoying views of the beach park below. The overcast skies did not allow us to see the islands of Maloka’i and Lanai normally visible on sunny days. Amusingly, on the way up, a girl desperate to relieve her bladder, rushed excitedly towards an out-of-service pillbox perhaps mistaking it for a restroom. I suppose in desperate times it is easy to mistake an old machine gun nest for a bathroom? I am not sure what happened next but I didn’t stick around to find out.
After a roast chicken lunch following the hike, we drove to Lanikai Beach, a long stretch of white sand often considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Oahu. Located in a residential area without designated parking, Lanikai Beach was much less crowded and felt very serene compared to the zoo that was Waikiki Beach. I believe it was the most scenic beach we visited in Oahu.
Our next stop along the Windward Coast was the Byodo-in Temple, a replica of a 900 year old Japanese Buddhist temple, constructed in 1968 to commemorate the anniversary of Hawaii’s first Japanese Immigrants. Interestingly enough this temple was tucked away in the back of a mortuary and huge cemetery. The co-existence of both graveyard and temple was a real headscratcher – there was no mention of the temple driving through the cemetery and no mention of the cemetery walking through the temple. We explored the lush and tranquil temple grounds which featured an impressive koi pond that surrounded the temple. Every so often, the cacophony of a giant bell being rung by a tourist would permeate through the temple grounds. I found this to be rather disruptive to the overall atmosphere but apparently according to Buddhist teachings, ringing the bell before entering the temple will purify the mind of evil spirits and temptation!
In the early afternoon, we arrived and checked into Turtle Bay Resort, one of the few “luxury” resorts in the North Shore. Because the government has forbidden further commercial development along the North Shore, Turtle Bay Resort has monopolized the local hotel industry and have decided that it should cost you your firstborn to stay at their “prestigious” resort. Our room cost a whopping 500 USD a night excluding resort fee and parking!
Tired from a semi-active day of sightseeing (and trying to extract maximum value out of a 500 dollar hotel room), we spent most of the afternoon hanging out on our cool balcony overlooking the cove below (Kuilima Cove). Approaching dinner time, the wife developed an arbitrary craving for Thai food and despite my objection that in no way can Thai food be good in some desolate area of Oahu, we picked up Drunken Noodles, Papaya Salad,and Red curry from a local Thai food truck. It turned out to be slightly better than predicted – 3 out of 5.
Day 5 – Turtle Bay and the North Shore
We woke up to the gentle whoosh of the ocean breeze on yet another overcast day. After grabbing simple breakfast of coffee, pastries, and fruit from the breakfast bar (a complimentary perk that came with the “premier” room), we ventured out to explore the resort grounds.
Turtle Bay Resort encompasses several hundred acres of land containing extravagant golf courses, miles of biking/hiking/equestrian trails, and long stretches of rugged beaches. The property is well known for endangered sea turtles that would lay their eggs on the sandy shores before the area became commercialized and populated by surfers and tourists. Turtle sightings are apparently still quite common in the summer where these lumbering creatures come ashore to sunbathe. We trekked leisurely along the western shoreline eventually merging onto one of the many hiking trails on the property. The trail looped past an abandoned world war 2 bunker to Kalewa Bay, a very calm section of water popular for kayaking.
After our morning hike, we drove 20 minutes west, passing by the renowned surf reef Bonzai Pipeline, to the town of Hale’iwa for lunch. A small charming beach town bustling with tourists, Hale’iwa harbors the highest concentration of restaurants and shops in the North Shore. For reasons I do not fully comprehend, shrimp trucks are all the rage in this area and dozens of shrimp trucks are parked in every nook and cranny selling plates of shell-on shrimp sauteed in an unhealthy amount of butter and garlic. The most recognized of these trucks belong to Giovanni’s Shrimp, which has a cult-like following. We elected to eat at a truck that was a bit more off the beaten bath to avoid the long lines – it was delicious nonetheless.
After lunch, my wife wanted to visit the very popular Matsumoto Shave Ice. I have never been a fan of the slushy artificial taste of shave ice and the Matsumoto experience was no different. Prior to returning to the hotel, we stopped by a fruit stand to check out some local produce. To my disappointment, some fruits being sold (Mangos) were actually imported from Mexico! We walked away with bags of sliced locally grown (allegedly) pineapple and papaya.
We spent the afternoon back at Turtle Bay Resort playing in the water and napping on the stretch of beach in front of the hotel. With limited dining options at the resort (we were not in the mood for fancy dining), we picked up some grocery store poke at Foodland for dinner.
Day 6 – Turtle Bay
One of the problems with staying at a pricey resort is that you feel like you’re throwing away money when you leave the premises. This flawed mentality always led us to over-eat, over-drink, and over-indulge at all-inclusive resorts and even though Turtle Bay Resort is not all-inclusive, we were nevertheless eager to utilize every amenity given the price paid. We strolled along the beach, soaked up sun (the only sunny day of the trip), and unsuccessfully hunted for sea turtles (After awhile of scanning meticulously for turtles, I shifted my strategy to looking for crowds of people hoping that would lead to the turtles – still unsuccessful). The wife got a professional beachfront prenatal massage in the afternoon and we concluded a relaxing day by eating the biggest burger ever at a local Hawaiian burger shop.
Day 7 – Homebound
We relaxed at the beach for about an hour prior to departing Turtle Bay for the final time. The drive back towards Honolulu Airport was uneventful and we stopped by for lunch at “Poke on da Run” in Pearl City. The restaurant exterior looked like more like a shoddy convenience store in North Philadelphia, which in my book is indicative of an establishment with delicious food. Upon walking in, I discovered they had the cheapest (but super delicious) Ahi Poke I have ever seen – 9 dollars for half a pound! My wife had surpassed her quota for fish consumption and settled for braised beef plate which which was also fantastic. One of the cheapest but most delicious meals in Oahu!
Conclusion
While nothing about Oahu was extraordinarily spectacular, our trip was nevertheless an enjoyable getaway from the daily grind and relatively chilly California winter. It offered both the luxury amenities of a major metropolitan hub in Honolulu and Waikiki with the cool laid back island-life vibe of the North Shore – ultimately a worthwhile but expensive babymoon!