I flicked a gnat-like insect off the rim of my cup, only to see 2 more take a nose dive into my ice tea. I look to my right and see Mrs. Migrant guzzling down her soup, oblivious to the suspect dark speck that was about to enter her mouth. Deep in the jungles of the Peruvian Amazon, it suddenly occurred to me that while this last segment of the trip was meant for unwinding after the trek, having to guard against bugs raining down into your food every meal is anything but relaxing.
We had flown out of Cusco into Puerto Maldonado the day after the trek and was greeted by a representative from Rainforest Expeditions. A quick stopover at the headquarters and one bumpy van ride later, we found ourselves in a small motorboat cruising through the brown waters of the Amazon toward our first destination, the Refugio Amazonas. The refugio was located 3 hours upstream and then another thousand feet or so into the jungle by foot. Offering 24 hour electricity, hot private showers and a spotty wifi connection, the refugio was as luxurious as it could be for a man-made solar powered construct in the middle of the jungle. We would spend our next 2 days here hiking around the lodge in search of wildlife and learning about the fauna. The density of the forest made wildlife sightings rare, but our expedition leader Juan Carlos served as an expert scout, spotting various monkeys and birds amidst the trees.
On the third day, we packed up and hopped on an even smaller motorboat moving even further away from civilization. Three more hours upstream, we arrived at the Tambopata Research Center (TRC), the most remote outpost in the Peruvian Amazon and home to the scarlet macau. The center has carried out macau conservation research since the 1990s and for this reason, the macaus to this day still frequent the lodge in search of food. Some of the macaus have become so brave and comfortable around humans that they dash into the dining room to snatch up food when opportunity arises. We stayed at TRC for another 2 nights doing much of the same – looking for wildlife, napping on hammocks, fighting off bugs. Unique activities at the TRC included a trek to the nearby clay lick where hundreds of macaus normally gather to supplement their diet with nutrients from the red clay. Unfortunately we only saw a mere 2 birds when we went – perhaps they had already gotten their essential nutrients at the lodge’s dining commons. Overall, the two days spent at the more remote TRC led to more wildlife sightings – it is here where we saw packs of hungry wild boar storm through the jungle, gobbling up fallen leaves, nuts, fruits, and insects. I was hopeful a jaguar would be following the pack but alas, that Amazonian showdown never materialized.
The compilation of photos below outline our four day stay in the Amazon.
THE JUNGLE
THE ACCOMODATIONS
THE WILDLIFE
THE CONCLUSION
I entered the jungle seeking an experience that was uniquely Amazonian. I walked away with that experience (can it get any more real than 6 hours deep into the jungle?) but learned the following lessons:
Don’t expect this to be a safari, animals don’t like to be seen and trees are very good at hiding them
If you’re an avid bird watcher (I am not), this place could be heaven for you. If you prefer to see animals without effort, go to the zoo instead
Being in the rain forest is like being in a perpetual sauna, you may not survive if you’re of Nordic origin
The lodge is an extension of the jungle – you will learn to co-habitate with bugs and sometimes accidentally eat them
Luxury is relative – you may be paying St Regis prices but don’t expect this to be a 5 star hotel experience. In fact, showers are communal in Tambopata Research Center in order to minimize the environmental footprint
That concludes this series on Peru. Overall it was a great trip and in some way or another, I enjoyed every part of the journey. I am not sure I would ever go back to the Amazon as i have a strong aversion to hot and humid climates and insects, but it is truly an adventure worth experiencing at least once!